Cartagena de India, Colombia

I landed in Cartagena early on the morning of june 14th, my 36th birthday. The flights were a bit long but otherwise easy. As was customs. I quickly found a cab into town and place to stay. The hotel, The Viajero, was clean, cheap, had internet access, and best of all, had good air conditioning. By the time I dropped my bags off and set out to explore the town, it was around 10 am, already the city was stifling hot. I spent the next few hours walking the narrow cobblestone streets; checking out the colonial architecture, massive forts and amazing stone wall surrounding the city. It reminded me a lot of Havana, especially Habana Viejo. Although a lot less contrived and not nearly as touristy. Although there plenty of tourists in town and touts on every corner. After a few hours cruising around the city, and surveying other lodging options, I went back the Viajero for a nap. I have never enjoyed a cold, windowless room so much. I hung out there until about dark and set off to find some dinner.

I ate dinner at a ceviche place that was on an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. That show was probably my single biggest inspiration for visiting Colombia. I never had given traveling in Colombia much thought, assuming it would be suicidal. But the people on the show were so inviting and proud of how far their country has come in relatively few years. So far, everyone has been extremely friendly, especially given my lack of Spanish. Not much English is spoken here.

Anyway, the ceviche was delicious….calamari, shrimp, conch, and fish with lime and garlic. Not much else. I sat outside and watched a good mix of locals and tourists wandering around. Nights in Cartagena are amazing, The Caribbean breeze cools the city and everyone is in the streets. Old people, small children, entire families and groups of tourists and young locals off to hit the clubs. The kids are riding bikes and playing stick ball, fathers are cooking dinner on makeshift grills, women chatting and everyone having fun. This also reminded me of Cuba, they seem to be very similar people/ cultures. I imagine Colombia is what Cuba would be like with money and without the communist government.

The next day was more of the same, exploring the city, long siesta in the afternoon, then out for dinner and an evening stroll. I met a Spanish guy and 2 girls on vacation from Medellin. I had a few beers with them at a bar built on top of the 40 foot stone wall surrounding the city. It had an amazing, looking over both the old town and modern skyline. It also looked over the lit castile. It’s the largest Spanish fort built in the new world and was never taken despite countless attempts. It was fun practicing my Spanish and it was very helpful that the Spaniard could translate when needed.

Spent another morning walking around town and doing some errands. I think going to the bank was the highlight of the day. Tuesday was the hottest day so far and that bank felt like a walk in cooler. Back to the hotel to pack my bags, I was heading north.