The ride was pretty cold and a bit damp at first, but after an hour or so it quickly changed to sweltering heat. It’s amazing how fast the weather changes down here. I really can’t begin to describe the scenery I saw and wish I had more time take pictures. I easily could have stopped every 5 minutes. Absolutely amazing. Huge mountains, rivers, jungles, deserts, pine forests, beautiful farms, cool little towns and all sorts of road side stands. So many times I found myself giggling like a school boy or hooting and hollering I was so excited to be riding a motor bike through Colombia.
There are a very different set of rules for driving down here, essentially there are none. I have passed cars, trucks, busses and other bikes on double yellow lines, on the right shoulder, on the left shoulder (while another car was also passing), around corners, and in between oncoming trucks. You can make pretty good time on a motorbike down here. At one point there was a construction zone, maybe 50-60 cars in line. With a bike, it’s right up the middle or down the shoulder and you’re in the front of the line. It was me and another bike and a bunch of cars behind us. The guys waves us through, and I notice none of the cars behind me are moving. The other bike and I just blast through the construction, weaving in and out of dump trucks and bulldozers. Once I was through the construction, I had an empty road in front of me.
The first day I was pulled over twice. The first was a routine stop to check insurance. I wasn’t sure what the cop was looking for at first. Finally figured it out and tried explaining to him that the card I gave him (which I made at an internet café in bogota, totally fake), was my proof of insurance. Finally a Colombian guy pulled over and spoke a bit of English, he translated and the cop finally let me go. I think he was mostly just tired of hearing me say “no ententiendo”. The second time was coming though a little town about an hour later. This cop started by asking about the bike, where I had been, where I was going, etc.. I initially thought he just wanted to chat about bikes but he started saying something about an infraction. I gave him my license and fake insurance card, and asked what the problem was. Apparently I was wrong, there are a few enforced laws down here and it’s illegal to pass another vehicle on a double yellow line, in town at three times the speed limit. I just told him I thought it was ok since everyone else passes each other when/ wherever they please. He very nicely explained that passing wasn’t allowed in the pedestrian zones in town . No ticket.
I pulled into Ipiales around 5 or so. Still light out but it was disappearing quick. It was a much bigger town then I expected, more like a small city. I saw a motorcycle dealership, so I pulled in and asked if they knew of any hotels that had parking for the bike. As usual, the guy gave me directions and I understood the first two, of maybe 5, turns and ended up riding around in circles. I headed into the centro, total chaos. Roads closed, people and cars everywhere, not a decent looking hotel in site. I finally saw a place that had a front door that the bike would fit through. The place was shady, but I could park the bike in the lobby so it would work. I think the hotel rented the rooms on the first floor by the hour. I got to the room and immediately ripped all the blankets off the bed, real glad I had my own sleeping bag in this place.
I wondered out to find something to eat, there was a pedestrian mall a few blocks away. I was walking around when I heard someone calling my name, it was the guy that worked at the hotel. He took me to a great little hole in the wall restaurant, had one of my favorite Colombian meals, bandeja de paisa- chorizo, ground beef, chicharonnes (fried bacon), beans with meat, rice and avocado. Over dinner he asked me to help him get a visa to the us. I couldn’t really figure out what he was saying or how he though I could help him, but I told him I’d do what I could. I also asked if the town was safe to walk around at night. He said it was pretty chill, but be careful near the hotel because that’s where the transvestite hookers work and sometimes there are some sketchy characters hanging around. Go figure. After a walk around town and some people watching, I headed back to the hotel. Sure enough, a group a she-men were hanging on the corner, yelling and whistling as I, now very quickly, walked by. Into the room, locked the deadbolt and quickly fell asleep.
"Gone are the days we stop to decide where we should go, we just ride."
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